Garment pattern



April 23, 1929.

T. M CAMPBELL GARMENT PATTERN Filed Dec. 14. 1922 Ill]! Patented Apr. 23, 1929.

UNITED STATES 1 ,710,098 PATENT OFFICE.

THERON MCCAMPBELL, or HO MD LE, NEW JERSEY.

GARMENT PATTERN.

Application filed December 14, 1922. Serial No. 606,803.

generally for use inthe shaping andassem bling of garments of all kinds.

In a oopending application for patent Serial No. 606,802,.tiled Dec. 14,1922, I have described and claimed a system of patterns whereby a single sheet is made to serve 01 outlining a plurality of sizes of garment oiv a given design. But, in the great majority of cases, the outline of a pattern is only a part oi the means ot'guidance requisite. Most garment patterns must be furnished with printed or perforated indications whereby the user may known how to tuck, pleat, hem, shirr,smock or told the material after, it is cut out; and, it it be sought to include indi cations oi these kinds for a multitudeof sizes all on a single pattern sheet, the confusion becomes such as to make the pattern qui te nseless to unprofessional users, and of small relative value even to professionals.

The present invention supplies an economical simple solution of this problem; furnishing a pattern capable of ready use without the least confusion by unprofessional women in making garments of any desired standard size from a single pattern, together with its tucks, pleats, hems, shirring, smocking etc, all in their proper places for the (lite :terent sizes. c

This end is accomplished by using, in combination with the main patternsheets which disclose the outlines of each garment part, one or more auxiliary strips (which may be straight or curved) bearing guiding lines, words, numbers and other marks having reference to the folding operations (such as tuck ing, pleating etc). WVhen the cloth has been cut from the main sheet, the auxiliary strip or strips is or are laid across it,and, when pinned or tacked in, place, the guides on the stripindicateexactly where the folc s are to be made in the cloth and howthe cloth is to be sewed etc. to produce the ei-"foct desired. I It is only necessary, then, to fold the cloth and the paper together, whilexlying flat the one againstthe other, the folds being producedijust where indicated on the auxiliary strip by lines, perforations etc. I I I This being done, the pins or other temporary fastenings arev removed, and the paper can be taken away, leaving the garment folded behindit. This can, of course, be accomplished little by little, if desired; and it may be done with a half width pattern or a whole width pattern.

In commercial practice the auxiliary strips may be sold with the correspomling main sheets, either already separated, or, whatis better, forming removable edges of the sheets with which they are to be used.

From this it is clear that, a single main sheet, printed or perforated with outlines for a number of different sizes may be provided with as many auxiliary strips as there are sizes, (or two or more for each size), each strip bearing properly located guiding marks for locating the folds, tucks, etc. for the size to which. it belongs. Identifying marks on the strips and main sheet outlines will indi eate with which main outline each strip is to be used. I

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings in connection with a main pattern sheet for one part of a garment, marked for three sizes. Only three sizes are indicated for greater clearness in the drawing, although it is to beunderstood that the invention may be applied to patterns for only one size or for as many sizes as are found convenient; Also'the outlines etc. may be either perforated or printed, although the latter, as illustrated, is preferred, since, among other advantages, it permits both sides of a patternsh'eet to be separately used, thus permitting the display of a greater number of sizes than otherwise possible.

In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 shows the more outline of a plain skirt pattern "for-three sizes, having integral :folding or auxiliary strips, Figs. 2, 2 and 2" show the separate strips with their more essential markings all on a larger scale than Fig. 1, i shows the mode of folding the strips and dress material together preparatory to either tucking or pleating, Fig. 4 shows the final pressed and sewed arrangement for a box pleat and Fig. 5 shows the pressed and :ewed arrangement for a plain pleat.

It is to be understood that these figures are merely explanatory of the principles of the invention, and that the actual proportions and locations of guide lines shown are not intended to be correct in any given pattern. "In other words no attempt ishere made to show a properly graded pattern for actual use, as this is a matter within the province of those skilled in the art. Also it is to be understood that, although, for great clearness and simplicity, only one auxiliary strip.

is shown for each size in the drawing, the invention applies to patterns in which, for in stance, two strips are given for each s1ze, one

for folding, hemming etc. at the top and the;

other at the bottom. 'In other Wards, the number of strips supplied for each size is not an essentialof thein'vention. I I

The patterns made in accordance with this invention may be either fullsize; or, as is frequently the case in present practice, they maycorrespond 'to' one half of the sym metrical garment part for which each is intended. The auxiliary str1ps,too, may beless than full length, without departingfrom the invention, althoughthese are preferably made the full length, so that theycan be folded in with the entire garment part when out out. In the drawing, Fig. 1, the. ma n sheet isshown-o'ne' half width and the auxiliary strips full length. 7 p

In Fig. 1, the n'rain half width sheet for a pleated skirt pattern is shown bounded on one side by the center fold line 10, and on the opposite side bythe line 11 corresponding 7 to the largest sized skirt contemplated! The line 12 indicates the next smaller size and the line 13 the smallest of the three sizes intended. These lines limit the fullness or cirshown in Fig. l as made'in one piece with the main sheet; The strip 14', for the largest size is twice as long as the width from 10" toill (being the widthof the half size main pattern sheet). Similarly the strip 15' for the next smaller size is twice the width from 10 is twice the width from 10 to 13.

It will,-oi' course, be understood that as many sizes-as are convenient may be shown". (each with its appropriate auxiliary strip or.

strips) and thethree sizes shown are merely llustrated by wayof example. Also, a nu'm ber of sizes may be shown on each side of the main sheet, thus increasing the usefulness of the single piece or" paper. V 7 Y The drawings have been made as simple as possible for'clearness, but it will, of course,

{be understood that, such notches, perforations, words, lines or signs may be used on theip'attern as may befound convenient, and V as is well understood by those skilled in the art. 7 p l Eachlauxiliary strip, too, may bear words,

letters, signs etc. givingany desired informa .tion and directionsdor use. 'Mostof these have been omitted from the drawings, but in Figs. 2, 2 and 2" the dotted lines 17, 18 are shown, indicating the points in the material which come together when folds are made along the lines 19' indicated by rows-of crosses, in forming tucks and pleats. The longitudinal double arrows are conventional signs indicating that the lines 17 and 18 at their respective extremities cometogether in the shaping of the garment. It will. be noticed that the spacing of the'various lines in the different-strips varies, so that pleats of d'it tereirtappropriate size and spacing may be produced for the diiierent sizes of shirt.

The shirt having been cut out in the full size desired by meansoi the mainsheet, the auxiliary strip corresponding to that size is laid across it transversely to the lines of the desired folds, and is pinned oi-tacked down on the cloth. The materialis then folded, together with the strip, in the manner indicated, with respect to two: folds, in Fig. 4. In Fig. 3' the strip is indicated edgewise, by the dotted line, and the locations of the guiding lines are shown respectively by the nu" merals 17, lS and 19, corresponding to Figs. 2, 2 and 2 ,The cloth having beenthus folded all the way across in contact with the guiding strip pinned or tacked to it, the foldsare secured by stitches at intervals and the paper'is removed, being capable oi repeated use, if desired.

The mode of pressing the folds will vary according to the final effect desired. If pressed as in Fig. i, a box pleat will result. In Fig. 5 is shown a simple pleat. Obviously other well known shaping and folding effects may be produced by using appropriately marked auxiliary strips.

.Thestrips may either be supplied conimei'cially forming an integral part of the main sheet, as in Fig. 1, or they may be supplied already separated, usually folded in with the main sheet in the sameenvelope I V with it. toIQ; and'the strip 16* for the smallest size:

The systemabove described can, of course, be used with a'pattern for only a single size,

such as is already in 00131110111156; It hascertain advantages, in any ease,'quiteaside from avoidance of the great confusionwhich would result from trying w indicate the differently located folds etc. for a number of sizes on one main sheet. Hitherto it has been necessary to stitch or mark through perforation-s in the pattern onto the cloth, and such markings re quire time and care in making and troublein removing. them afterward. Besides it is detrimental to delicate fabrics to be obliged to .use'chalk'marks, pin holes, etc. upon them.

All this is avoided by the present invention. Another advantage of using auxiliary folding strips with a one-sized garment pattern is that it makes it possible, by supplying a number of strips, to select any one of a i'i-u-mberpt kinds, sizes or relative locations of folds,

tucks etc.

Moreover, where half Width patterns are used symmetrically, the cloth is folded before cutting, and the marks musteither be carried through both thicknesses of cloth, or the pattern must be applied twiceonce reversedso that any printed signs must be read through the paper. This is a frequent source of inaccuracy and mistakes.

WVhat is claimed is 1. In a pattern for a garment part, a sheet bearing the outline of a garment part of a specific shape and size, in combination with an auxiliary strip bearing guiding marks adapted, When laid on said outlined garment part to indicate Where the required folds are to be made on that specific size and shape. of

part.

2. Means for insuring the proper folding of a shaped garment part of a specific shape and size comprising a strip of material adapted to be folded With said garment part, said strip bearing guiding marks so located as to clearly indicate to a dressinaker the location of the folds required by said specific shape and size of garment part.

8. As an article of manufacture, a sheet of easily i'oldable paper having printed upon it the outlines of garment parts of specific sizes and also having printed upon it the outlines of guiding strips each bearing guiding marks adapted to clearly indicate to a dressmaker the location of. the. .folds required in garment parts shaped like the respective outlines of i hand. I

, TI-IERON MoOAMPBELL. 

